We have had an extraordinary experience over the last two days. Early on Wednesday morning we headed to Paraparaumu Beach (about 15 minutes south of us) to check in with Kapiti Island Nature Tours.
Kapiti Island is around 5km off the west coast of the southern North Island. It’s the island that you have seen in some of the photos from our current beach. For Frances, it is one of the defining features of this part of the coastline. It is 10km long and around 2km wide and it covers 1,965 hectares.
The Island is a nature reserve – an area set aside for the protection of native plants and native birds. Having been lifted by earthquake, then eroded by climate and ocean the highest point, Tuteremoana, sits 521m above sea level. The terrain was more rocky than we had expected. The beaches were pebbled and the soil was full of rocks. The regenerated native forest is magnificent. Kapiti Island has been managed by the New Zealand Government in order to protect its flora and fauna for more than 100 years.
It is regarded as ‘one of the crown jewels of New Zealand’s conservation estate’ as it provides the necessary ‘pest and predator’ free environment for many of New Zealand’s most endangered bird species.
For over 800 years people also have lived on this island. We found that history to be every bit as engaging as the wildlife. The famous Maori chief Te Rauparaha used Kapiti Island strategically to control his middle NZ empire between the 1830s and 1860s. His Ngāti Toa tribe regularly sailed in canoes on raiding journeys up to the Whanganui River and down to Marlborough. In the Battle of Wairo (1824) the Ngāti Toa destroyed a force of 2,000 mainland warriors who had landed at the northern end of Kapiti in an attempt to capture the island.
Since then, Kapiti Island has seen several waves of European interest. First came the explorers, including Captain James Cook who named Kapiti “Entry Island” because of its proximity to Cook Strait. Soon after came commercial whalers, including Australian and American whalers using their ‘long boats’ to chase the whales. They processed the meat in large ‘blubber pots’ (some of which still remain on the Island). The nearby sea was a nursery for whales, and during whaling times up to 2,000 people were based on the island. Oil was melted from the blubber for use in oil lamps and as a lubricant before there were petroleum alternatives. By the late 1840’s the whale population had been reduced to the point that commercial whaling in the area died out.
After the decline of whaling the island was primarily converted to grassland for sheep farming. Sheep farming destroyed most of the native bush and that along with the intentional or accidental introduction of various small mammals decimated the native bird population – especially the ground nesting birds.
However, the diversity and abundance of native species and conservation potential was recognized early on. In 1897 New Zealand’s Prime Minister Richard Seddon introduced a bill to Parliament in order to acquire Kapiti Island ‘to conserve the flora and fauna of the Island’.
It was not until 1987 that the Department of Conservation (DOC) took over the administration of the island. In the 1980s and 1990s efforts were made to return the island to a natural state; first sheep and possums were removed. In an action few thought possible for an island of its size, rats were eradicated in 1998.
The difference this makes to the plant and animal life (and especially the birdlife) is huge. The island is home to a number of native birds that are rare and/or endangered. The native bush is regenerating as well, though it may take another 100 years to fully recover.
One of the island’s striking features is how much louder the bird song is than the insect chatter. Kapiti is a tough place to be an insect.
Of the total 1965 hectares, the local tangata whenua (Maori people of the land) kept 13 hectares around Waiorua Bay, which is where the Lodge that we stayed at was. Our guide, Pania, is a descendant of the woman who held on to the land against attempts by the Crown to take it. (She is is also a direct descendant of Maori chief Te Rauparaha, who is buried on the island.)
She was generous in sharing her flora and fauna knowledge with us and inviting us into Maoritanga (Maori culture) and the rich story of her family. Her family members run Kapiti Nature Tours, providing transport to the Island, hospitality and guided tours.
It was a 15 minute boat ride to Kapiti and then after an information session in the Nature Center, where we learned what is summarized in the paragraphs above and more, we took a guided walk with Pania to identify some native birds and learn some interesting facts about native plants. Kawakawa, for example, is used as a pain reliever – chew a leaf and it will made your mouth numb. It’s best to pick leaves that have been chewed on by caterpillars because these have the highest healing capability since the plant activates these in response to the caterpillar bites.
Then we hiked up to the summit – this was a pretty steep hike, and since the peak was shrouded in cloud, the views were not very rewarding. But there was a rata flower as a consolation prize.
Mid-afternoon, the boat came for us and took us to the North End of the Island, where the lodge is. After afternoon tea, we were taken to our accommodation – a very comfortable yurt. Then we had a lovely cooling swim in the ocean.
Before we knew it, it was happy hour. We enjoyed a very acceptable Pinot Gris, produced on the mainland in Ohau, not far from us. Dinner was a feast. We enjoyed meeting others on the adventure– mostly older than us, all kiwis. We were impressed with their level of fitness.
After an excellent feast, when night had fallen, we went out in search of a kiwi. Kiwis are nocturnal, so your only chance of seeing them in the wild is at night. Five little spotted kiwi were introduced to Kapiti Island from the South Island in 1912. They had died out on the North Island, but in the predator-free environment, they thrived. Since 1983, kiwis have been transferred from Kapiti to establish new populations in other parts of the country.
It was quite an experience to walk silently in the dark behind our guide with only a glimmer of a red torch. We were thrilled to see both a little spotted kiwi and a blue penguin chick! (File photos below – we could not take photos.)
New Zealand has the largest number of flightless birds. These could evolve because there were no predator mammals. In addition to the kiwi, we saw Weka, which are pretty common, and Takahe, which are very rare – only about 300 in the whole of NZ (and only 4 on Kapiti). The little spotted kiwi was quite a bit bigger than we had expected. And, of course, we saw and heard native birds that fly, among them, fantail, bellbird, saddleback, Hihi, robins, Keruru, Tui, and Kaka.
Next morning after a sumptuous breakfast, we headed out to explore the north end of the island and to see some shore birds.
Then back to the lodge for a lesson in flax weaving, a Maori craft. This requires very little equipment, but some more practice is in order. In the course of weaving, Frances was stung by a bee. Pania produced a ‘bite away’ device, about the size of an electronic thermometer. It uses concentrated heat on a bite to decompose the insects proteins and to suppress the body’s allergic reaction. Good as new! And the basket got done!
All too soon, it was time to leave. On our way down to the boat, we spotted a fur seal, lazing in the water where we swam the day before!
