Sunday, March 5, 2023
We cleaned up and checked out of our PurePod and met Greg at the road for a drive into town. We had a wee time before our ferry to Ulva Island, so we had a stroll around Oban, dropped our backpacks off at the Stewart Island Flights Center (which doubles as the Post Office), had a coffee at the hotel, and then strolled up to the Presbyterian church, which is the only working church in town. We had a chat with the minister and a couple of parishioners, one of whom had just picked a large bunch of rhubarb from the church garden. The floor inside the church was a bit sticky due to the habit of using boiled linseed oil to finish the floors. Interestingly, there was a Norwegian and a NZ flag hanging inside. We asked about that, having expected a Scottish flag. The Norwegian connection dates from whaling days.
Then we moseyed on to the wharf where we would catch our ferry to Ulva Island. While waiting for the ferry we struck up a conversation with a couple from Christchurch who had lived in Palo Alto. He was some kind of plant scientist and together they knew an awful lot about NZ flora and fauna. They pointed out the white capped albatross that we had thought was a super-sized gull.
We boarded our ferry. Ulva Island is a pristine forested island of about 269 hectares situated within Paterson Inlet, about a 45 minute ferry ride from Stewart Island. It is one of the few predator-free sanctuaries in New Zealand, which has allowed native species to flourish. Sadly, we did not spot a kiwi, but it was a delight to learn about the history of the area and to see different birds and plants in their native habitats. Most of the birds were too fast for us to photograph, but here are a few pictures.
After Ulva, it was time to head back to New Zealand, as Stewart Islanders say. We had time for a cup of tea at a local cafe and found the “Stewart Island Constitution” on the table. It made sense to us.
We arrived back in Invercargill and had time to do laundry before calling it at night. We did work on the blog, but gave up due to poor internet connectivity.
Monday, March 6, 2023
In search of breakfast this morning, we came across Fat Bastard Pies. NZ pies are legendary. They are individual pies, traditionally filled with meat, but more recently other options have been added. Jim thought a sausage roll might be calling his name.
Interestingly they offered a ‘skinny Indian’, which was filled with butter chicken. We did notice that the establishment sold T-shirts in sizes medium and 2XL and 3XL only. We have no idea who the Fat Bastard is, nor whether it is an affectionate reference. Since we hoped to belong in Medium rather than one of the XLs, we each got a long black coffee and small eats to take away.
Frances’ bee sting seemed to have become quite swollen during the night. We chatted with the pharmacist at the nearby Countdown (grocery store) about how to manage the swelling. She was quite helpful.
Then we set out for Gore, where we had hoped to visit the local art museum. By the time we reach Gore, Frances could not bend her finger, so we stopped at the local hospital. Gore is a small town of about 13,000. When we arrived and explained the situation, they looked Frances up in the national health database and found her. The doctor examined the finger and confirmed that we were treating it effectively but that it should be elevated.
In all fairness, Dr. Jim had advised this, but his advice had not been followed. The hospital provided a sling and paperwork to show that the injury was to be regarded as an accident and any further treatment that was required would be fully covered by NZ’s Accident Compensation System. The whole process took about an hour and everyone who interacted with us was very respectful and kind.
We missed the art gallery but saw the hospital.
We then drove to Dunedin to the Royal Albatross Colony. More than 25 years ago, Jim and Andrew had seen albatrosses here, but Frances hadn’t. So this was a catch up opportunity. In the intervening years, a Center has been established with a film, a guide, and an opportunity to learn about these amazing birds, who mate for life, come back to the place they were born to breed, and go for a year without touching land. They are a remarkable species, with wingspans of 3 meters. They can live and breed for 35 years or more. We enjoyed seeing the chicks. The Dad albatrosses take their share of child rearing and feeding for the first 8 months. The parents take it in turns to forage and care for their chick.
The Albatross Center is on the Otago Peninsula which boasts fabulous bay and ocean views. As with driving from Invercargill to Dunedin, we were struck with how golden everything is compared with the (too) well watered north. Southalanders will tell you what a great summer they have have with lots of sunshine, whereas the people we encountered north of Auckland talk about their lack of summer this year.
March 7, 2023
Dunedin
What a grand city this is! Dunedin, once NZ’s largest city, boomed during the gold rush. With a significant Maori history, colonial settlers with ties to Scotland, and immigration from China, the city has a rich cultural history. We saw this honored and respected in the museums, gardens, and art galleries. We’re sure we missed a lot, but it would be a great place to return to.
We’re going to let the pictures speak for themselves because we’re weary after a most enjoyable day spent prowling the city. The city is rich with history, gorgeous, and delightfully walkable. Highlights included the train station, under a restoration blanket, the Otago Settlers Museum, which is one of the best local history museums we have ever been to, the Chinese garden, the Dunedin Public Art Gallery, and the churches/cathedrals – Catholic, Anglican, and Presbyterian.
